The under-the-radar Alps spot perfect for a family ski holiday
Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis is in Tyrol – the same region of Austria as the world famous St. Anton am Arlberg – but unlike its neighbour, has precious little name recognition in the UK. I had been on a ski holiday in Serfaus as a child so fifty years later it was high time for a return visit. Two of my teenage daughters and I joined the knowing Austrians and hordes of Dutch just before Christmas on a weeklong trip to Serfaus Fiss Ladis, or SFL to the locals.
‘We are Family’ might be the resort’s strapline, but this underrated destination is about more than beginner slopes and cartoon characters. There are 214kms of pistes with rich and varied skiing spread across the three villages of Serfaus, Fiss and Ladis. The south facing side of the Fiss and Ladis areas feels homely, warm and welcoming. Enjoy multiple tree-lined descents with mid-mountain restaurants along the way, not dissimilar from the famous Austrian resorts like Kitzbuhel, Ischgl and St. Anton. At the opposite end is the Masner area which is more rocky, rugged, exposed, high alpine terrain. Regardless of where you ski, the pistes are all fantastically well maintained with impressive snow making, essential this particular season, which has seen weaker snowfall in key areas than this time last year.
The resort is high: Masnerkopf is the top lift at 2,828m and there are a range of lifts across the resort dropping skiers around 2,500m. The base station villages are at an altitude of 1400m, so this provides plenty of vertical drop to enjoy on a good mix of black, red and blue runs. Our favourite was a long, rolling red called ‘Froomes’ which carries you along an exposed ridge from the Schöngampbahn lift before weaving through the woods for miles before reaching the base station in Fiss.
A family ski holiday in Austria
The runs down from the high level lifts are a mix of easy blues as well as challenging red and blacks, with plenty of off piste options when conditions permit. To serve beginners there are lots of areas with ‘rolling carpets’ to alleviate the need to use chairlifts. With older kids in mind, there are ‘fun’ parks with jumps, rails, and drop-offs all around the resort.
In general there is a wonderful relaxed atmosphere, with skiers giving each other more space then I am used to. There has been real thought given to every aspect of how the place runs, especially for families, with just as much challenging skiing as the more famous resorts. But the good news is that with families dominant amongst the skiing profile, there isn’t an armada of wannabe champions thrashing around the resort, as has become common thanks to the arrival of race apps.
We weren’t blessed with great off piste conditions, but I looked longingly at acres of wonderful terrain knowing that without an army of twenty-somethings in residence for the ski season, I would have day after day to find fresh tracks. Don’t tell anyone. Let’s keep Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis a family resort.
The Patchi bar in the centre is further evidence that the resort goes further than its family reputation. Here, a younger aprés ski crowd of predominantly Dutch, Germans and Austrians dance on tables until the small hours. George’s bar in the middle of Serfaus is another lively institution, with the titular DJ George leading a multi generational – but no less enthusiastic – crowd through the classics.
But back to families. We headed back up the mountain after dinner for a late-night light show called Adventure Night: Magic of Colours, a multimedia spectacle on the slopes just outside the Komperdellbahn station at 2,000m. We joined 2,500 others who attend this event each Wednesday at 9pm throughout the season to take in the mix of drone light show, fireworks, formation skiing displays and live music. Wrap up warm and order mulled wine.
Clomping back to your hotel carrying ski equipment is one of the perennial chores on a ski holiday. Not in Serfaus, where they have invested in what is beyond question the most efficient ski equipment storage system I have ever encountered. The resort has devoted a large indoor area with benches and huge storage racks managed by a bevvy of enthusiastic attendants who take your ski clobber and hand you back your shoes. The result is that within minutes of finishing your ski day you are in comfortable shoes and your skis, boots, helmet are all safely stored and being gently heated overnight. No more parents wrangling a forest of skis and poles back to the hotel.
Accommodation in Serfaus is spread along a 2km strip that runs the whole length of the village. We stayed at the recently refurbished and spectacular five star Hotel Cervosa a 15 minute walk from the ski depot or a 5 minute ride on what the town claims is the world’s smallest and highest underground train. This investment in this free public transport means that no matter where you stay you are never more than a short walk from one of the four stops that stretch from the car park to the main lifts. It’s a lovely touch that kids are invited to be the train attendant for the day: Hugo aged seven from Amsterdam will definitely be telling his friends about “running the trains” on holiday before he tells them about skiing.
Accommodation ranges from five star hotels to self-catering apartments. Equally the lunch options are diverse. The Wiener schnitzel at the self-service Skihütte Masner was excellent and goulash soup for €7.50 was excellent value, accompanied by stunning Austrian Alps views. Our favourite lunch stop was the Schalberalm where a plate of Kaiserschmarrn – chopped up, thick pancakes – with apple sauce was the hero. A six day high season ski pass costs €394, which is around 10 per cent less than more famous resorts.
Sure, it’s a great ski holiday for families, but I will also be recommending Serfaus Fiss Ladis for my next ski holiday with mates. The civilised slopes are great, but the policeman handing little bags of sweets to everyone as they make their way to the slopes is just top notch. I may be in my fifties now, but those little touches of magic never wear off.
Visit the Austrian Alps yourself
Serfaus Fiss Ladis is 1 hour 15 minute (90kms) by car from Innsbruck, where BA and EasyJet fly. Go to serfaus-fiss-ladis.at and for rental to patscheider.com