The fabulous French chateau under 30 minutes from Paris
Naomi Lloyd finds the perfect French countryside getaway, under an hour from Paris
THE WEEKEND
Chantilly gave the world elegant lace and sweet, whipped cream. The small French town is also home to the magnificent but underrated Chateau de Chantilly, once the playground of princes, with an art gallery housing the largest collection of antique paintings outside the Louvre and gardens to rival Versailles (in fact they were designed by the same landscape gardener). France’s famous Chantilly Racecourse, one of the most beautiful in the world, has the Chateau as its backdrop.
Nestled in the 15,000 acre Chantilly Forest in Oise, in the Picardy region of northern France, Chantilly is around 30 minutes by train from Paris and a 20 minute drive from Charles de Gaulle airport, making it ideal for a French weekend break, combined with a visit to the French capital, or as a jumping-off point to exploring other parts of France.
THE STAY
Revel in your own French luxury chateau experience at the newly restored InterContinental Chantilly Château Mont Royal. Built in 1907 as the country residence of French composer Fernand Halphen, who wanted his wife to have “a view which enchanted her,” and now part of the global luxury portfolio of IHG Hotels & Resort, the chateau’s 109 redesigned rooms and suites offer guests views across the ancient royal hunting grounds of Chantilly Forest.
Read more: A ski holiday in Val d’Isere is the hippest way to do the French Alps
Stroll or cycle along the meandering forest trails that lead off from the chateau. For a little alone time from the little ones, drop the kids off for a smorgasbord of little people’s activities (treasure hunts, pony riding, even a workshop learning to make Chantilly cream) while you indulge at the spa and indoor pool.
Passive-aggressive Parisian waiters could learn a thing or two from the service at Château de Chantilly
THE FOOD
The château has two fine-dining restaurants. Le Stradivarius was once Fernand Halphen’s library and smoking room, with its wood-panelled interior and roaring fire. It’s great for celebrity spotting: I whiled away an evening in the company of a well-known French actor. Now that it’s spring, the restaurant opens onto a large forest-view terrace.
French chef Cédric Jean-Charles presents seasonal, local produce in ‘reimagined’ classic French dishes (think Foie gras terrine with mango and basil chutney) which was delicious, my husband assured me. For those of us preferring something less animal-based, the nourish bowl wellness salad is a treat. The desserts are exquisite without exception.
Read more: The new hotel that lets you do Paris like the Parisians
L’Opéra, the château’s former music salon with its high ceilings and imposing chandeliers, is where breakfasts and Sunday brunch are served. The service from the team is exceptional, with our favourite window-side table saved each morning. Passive-aggressive Parisian waiters could learn a thing or two from the service here: after a few days, my four-year-old daughter decides she wants to adopt the two kindly waiters as her uncles.
ASK ABOUT
Chantilly cream. Ask the concierge where to go for the best in town (okay, it’s the Hameau restaurant in the grounds of the Chateau de Chantilly.) They’re also on hand to organise any excursions and in-the-know experiences in the area. And finally, don’t miss the nearby ancient royal town of Senlis. Once the retreat of French kings, visit its gothic cathedral, wander the medieval cobbled streets and explore the Gallo-Roman city walls.
NEED TO KNOW:
Nightly rates at the InterContinental Chantilly Château Mont Royal start at €330. Email
info.chantilly@ihg.com or call the reservations desk on 0811 980 002