Ask the Expert: Kemal Demirasal’s top London restaurants
The Counter’s chef-founder Kemal Demirasal on where he likes to eat in the capital on his day off.
Brat
Brat is one of my top restaurants in London, one that I visit every couple of months. It’s got an excellent selection of fish dishes, and as someone from a coastal city (Izmir), this is a big draw for me. My culinary journey has been closely tied to the Basque region, which I’ve visited a lot over the years for research and inspiration, and Brat is one of the best showcases of Basque cooking on British soil. My favourite dishes include kokotxas (traditional fish stew), and turbot with Txakoli.
Koya
Koya is the best execution of udon in London and their tempura is exceptional. I also love their tea selection, which pairs nicely with the menu – not to mention the seasonal pickles, which are intense and pack a real punch. It’s a great casual option, and their Soho restaurant is walk-in only, so it’s a gastronomic journey you can take in the middle of a busy day. Of the three Koyas in London, Soho is definitely my favourite as it feels like an institution – homely, warm and full of character.
Sabor
Similar to Brat and its representation of Basque cooking, I love the way Sabor represents the best of the Catalan region. The croquettas are a must-try, and the counter seating downstairs makes for an excellent experience. It’s great to be in the heart of the action overlooking the kitchen – this is a conscious decision we’ve made at my restaurant, which is called The Counter! I’d recommend their daily seafood specials, and trying out the fantastic selection of vermouths.
Trivet
Chef Johnny Lake is a legend – his use of ingredients is genius and his approach to achieving umami is really interesting. For me, what makes Trivet so special is its down to earth atmosphere despite the wealth of expertise across the whole team. This translates into the menu where you’ll find unexpected things like french fries that seem incongruous with fine dining but is what are often missing from highly acclaimed restaurants. The way Isa Bal chooses his wines is also unique – it seems like a totally spontaneous choice, but in reality is very carefully considered.
Brawn
The Brawn team are really skilled at creating umami flavours, with a particular strength being their savoury sauces. Two highlights for me have been an asparagus dish with sour cream sauce, and a fish dish with a mussel sauce, which both created a nice layering of flavours. The produce is also incredibly fresh and I feel this every time I visit (every two months). My favourite drink here is their negroni, but there’s also an excellent wine selection. The atmosphere is worth a mention, and I always feel like I’m dining at a busy French bistro.