Hotel Chais Monnet in Cognac: Stunning space off the tourist track
The distillery town of Cognac lies off the tourist route, making it ideal for a weekend break that genuinely feels like a getaway. Our Life&Style editor Steve Dinneen stayed at the wonderful Hotel Chais Monnet.
Where is it? Cognac, population 18,000, is one of those places whose produce is far more famous than the town itself. Located a couple of hour’s drive north of Bordeaux, across the Gironde Estuary, it’s aggressively French, its cobbled mediaeval streets drawn directly from the Platonic ideal of a charming little Gallic town.
It’s surrounded by the vineyards from which the titular spirit is produced. Cognac is still the major industry here, with the big four producers – Hennessy, Remy Martin, Courvoisier and Martell – all having operations in the town and employing thousands between them.
The stay: Unlike Champagne, Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and countless other grape-growing regions, Cognac doesn’t feel like a particularly touristy destination, which is great if you’re looking for a weekend that genuinely feels like getting away from it all. That doesn’t mean it’s not set up as a perfect tourist retreat, however.
The Hotel Chais Monnet is one of the most stunningly converted hotels I’ve stayed in, a brilliant melding of traditional and modern architecture. Entering through the 19th-century frontage of the former cognac trading house, you’re greeted by a stylish and contemporary lobby complete with circular glass lifts and outre chandeliers, cut through by original timber beams.
Continue through a glass atrium covering the passage between two former warehouses and you will eventually reach the spa, whose opulence really defines what the Hotel Chais Monnet is all about, with its indoor/outdoor pool and general air of low-key luxury.
This vibe is continued throughout the rooms and suites, which also work the original beams into the elegant beige-and-grey design aesthetic. The junior suite in which I stayed came with walk-in wardrobes, a social area, and a cosy terrace that’s ideal for enjoying a morning coffee while you read the papers.
Outside the hotel you can find a small fleet of classic VW Beetles, which can be hired during your stay, should you wish to add a certain European je ne sais quoi to your weekend away.
What’s there to do? The first thing on any list should be simply meandering through the ancient streets. The lack of tourist architecture allows you to really immerse yourself in this working town, which has changed little in the last 200 years. There are manicured gardens and rugged cognac estates, not to mention plenty of picturesque walks through the vineyards and by the Charente river.
You should also take in a tour of one of the cognac distilleries. While the “big four” all offer tours, I went for the fifth largest distiller, Camus, which offers an excellent afternoon steeped in the history of the area, the intricacies of spirit production, and offers a comprehensive tasting that will leave you pleasantly sozzled after your generous afternoon is up.
The food: Most of the bars and restaurants are clustered round the centre of town. The food is good and the service is extremely French. For something special, though, book a table at Les Foudres at the Hotel Chais Monnet, the fine dining restaurant in the depths of the building. I was blown away by the inventive and refined creations of chef Paolo Boscaro.
Need to know: Nightly rates at Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa start from €260 per room, room only. Flights from London to Bordeaux or La Rochelle. For more information please visit chaismonnethotel.com