Wine diary: My lunch with the Tom Selleck of the wine world
Celebration was in the air at the first Winemakers Lunch in over two years. Hosted by Top Selection director Akos Forczek, it took place at the oenophile haven that is 67 Pall Mall’s private dining room. The guest of honour was Peter Mondavi Jr who, baring some resemblance to an even-more-twinkly Tom Selleck, took us through his family history.
As owner of Charles Krug, established in 1891 and the oldest winery in Napa, Mondavi is as close as one comes to US Wine Royalty, though sadly there are no ties to Krug Champagne. “I wish there were” quipped Mondavi “so I could get a family discount”.
Not that he is lacking in fine wine. Stealthily topped up by charmingly helpful waiters (leading to some overt conviviality) these wines were luxurious in the extreme. When one sips a Charles Krug, one is drinking a piece of US history. Winemaker Stacy Clark, who joined in 2011, is “fanatically dedicated to winemaking,” says Mondavi. “Her expectations and demands are very, very high”.
We started with the Carneros Chardonnay 2019; the Pacific fogs of the region cool the ripening grapes and create a deliciously fresh white, underpinned by bright acidity. Napa is known for its excellent, bold Cabernet Sauvignons but for me it was the ‘Generations 2017’, named to honour the family’s past present and future, which stole the show.
Created through “circumstances and chance” by Mondavi’s brother Marc this ‘Bordeaux Blend’ included previously unused Cabernet Franc. “Dad went completely ballistic,” laughed Mondavi, but the wine was allowed to remain and, just like everyone at the lunch, he too “started to fall in love with it”. Elegant wines that belong on the table, complimenting pleasant food and company, I could not imagine a more rewarding relaunch of these Winemakers Lunches. Long may they continue!
WINE ALERT
For those looking for a wine bargain this holiday season, Waitrose has announced it is launching a selection of its fine wines at £10 from 1-14 December. Watch out for Bird In Hand Sparkling 2021 and the Domaine Bousequet Gaia Malbec 2019.