Uncovering Churchill’s Marrakech May 26, 2022 Asking if Winston Churchill was a hero or a villain oversimplifies the man and the historic events in which he played such controversial — but undoubtedly significant — roles. I knew of him first as a statesman, then as a historian and writer, but only relatively recently discovered that Churchill was an accomplished artist, too. [...]
Trekking Malaysia, from jungle to sea May 9, 2022 I stand, deep in the rainforest, and listen. Life is pulsating, filling the hot and humid air. It is pervasive, all encompassing, and almost suffocating. The leaf litter beneath my feet moves a little. It feels primeval. It is primeval: these forests in Malaysia are over 130 million years old. The air is filled with [...]
How the Berlin Wall still influences culture and commerce December 1, 2021 Nature is reclaiming the Death Strip. Pioneer birch trees have self-seeded, creating a winding, shady memorial that cuts through the heart of Berlin. There are cherry blossoms too, a gift from the Japanese government. But it is the slim, silvery trunks of the birches, and the dappled, dancing shadows they cast on the path, that [...]
Treetop spas and temples: An enriching holiday in Bali October 25, 2021 There was a moment, when I was sat in the make-up chair looking at my half painted reflection, that I thought I’d made a big mistake. The white base and lurid yellow, fuschia, and blue eye shadow was rather more Grayson Perry than the elegant Balinese dancer I’d been hoping for. But I kept the [...]
Skiing in Uzbekistan, the cold heart of the Silk Road October 16, 2021 I remembered the loudness of a helicopter, its blades beating the air like an incensed dragon. What I hadn’t realised, though, is that when a helicopter lands on deep snow, the force creates a blast of ice and powder which rips through your clothing and stings any inch of exposed skin. It goes on and [...]
Taking a walk on the wild side of Sardinia October 9, 2021 Flying into Sardinia’s Cagliari, the ancient city spreads out below you, and then gives way to the packed beach resorts of Costa Smeralda. Cagliari’s rich in history and culture, and the resorts’ nightlife is amongst the most vibrant in the Med, but the last thing I wanted was to be surrounded by other holidaymakers. I’d [...]
