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Food

  • Galley on Upper Street in Islington is nice: but we should aim higher

    February 23, 2016

    We can afford to be discerning about things, us Londoners, what with all the lovely London stuff we have, Londoning the place up. “Isn’t everything here great compared to the things in places that aren’t London?” we say to each other, smiling and knowing it to be true. Take restaurants: we have heaps of them, [...]

  • Frenchie in Covent Garden and Native on Neal’s Yard are both fantastic

    February 16, 2016

    NATIVE Neal's Yard, Covent Garden Tel: 0203 638 8214 FOOD ★★★★☆ | VALUE ★★★★★ | ATMOSPHERE ★★★☆☆ Cost for two with two rounds of beer: £50 – – – – – – – – – – – FRENCHIE 16 Henrietta St, Covent Garden Tel: 0207 836 4422 FOOD ★★★★★ | VALUE ★★★☆☆ | ATMOSPHERE ★★★☆☆ Cost [...]

  • Cocktail bar Gong is unashamedly luxurious, and the best place in London to get hitched

    February 16, 2016

    At the end of last year I was faced with the terrifying prospect of having to decide where to propose to my then girlfriend (now, thankfully, fiancée). I was at a loss. I’ve got a bias for hotel bars, but most don’t afford you the privacy to bend down on one knee and ask another [...]

  • Galvin Hop review: The Galvin brothers open their first gastropub in the City

    February 16, 2016

    Galvin HOP, Spital Square, E1 What? A new gastropub – or “pub de luxe”, as the eponymous Galvin brothers prefer to call it – serving gourmet pub grub, snacks and pints. There’s also a takeaway bar so you can grab breakfast rolls, toasted muffins, Eccles cakes and “luxe dogs” to eat (ahem) on the hop. [...]

  • The best restaurants in Reykjavik, Iceland reviewed

    February 3, 2016

    Egill Skallagrímsson, one of Iceland’s most beloved folk heroes, wrote his first poem aged three, was an alcoholic by six and a murderer at seven. He’s famed for his acerbic wit, vicious temper and handiness with an axe, which he was more than willing to drive through the skull of friend or foe alike. His [...]

  • Three Little Birds in Brixton Jamaican restaurant review and the Shuang Shuang Chinese hot pot conveyor belt disaster

    February 2, 2016

    Last time I didn’t like a restaurant, someone got so cross they threatened to report me to the Independent Press Standards Organisation for the sheer gall of having an opinion, which, in this case, happened to be that their restaurant was rubbish. So in the interests of not making someone else cross, I shouldn’t write [...]

  • How Threadneedle Street’s M restaurant is bringing Japanese fishing tradition Ike Jime to London

    February 2, 2016

    M restaurant's executive chef Michael Reid on being the first restaurant in London to make sashimi using Ike Jime king fish. Ike Jime King Fish Sashimi I was first introduced to the Ike Jime fishing method during my time in Melbourne and it is without a doubt the most ethical and sustainable way to fish [...]

  • Darbaar restaurant review: Indian fine dining inspired by the banquets of the Indian Royal Court

    January 20, 2016

    Darbaar​ Snowden Street, EC2A 2DQ WHAT? A smart and upmarket new solo venture from a former Cinnamon Club head chef, Darbaar is an Indian fine dining restaurant with a menu of contemporary dishes inspired by the fancy banquets of the Indian Royal Court. WHERE? A five minute stroll from Liverpool Street station, on the ground [...]

  • Darkhorse Stratford restaurant review: more nag than stallion

    January 20, 2016

    I'm calling January 2016 as the moment the restaurant template that's dominated London for the last five years finally jumped the shark. Far too many new openings appear to have been cobbled together, Inception-style, from my memories of other restaurants, from the interior design to the locally sourced, modern European menus. There's a cynicism to the uniformity. It's a formula that [...]

  • Mix it up: Low alcohol cocktails mean you can behave yourself without being a bore

    January 13, 2016

    It's at this time of year that the puritanical prohibitionists start to circle. They can sniff out your Christmas excesses from 100 paces, and know that the New Year brings not only promise but promises, too. Dry January, sadly, isn't a prayer for clement weather. On top of the proselytising pressure to forsake alcohol for [...]

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