Working Lunch review: Gordon Ramsay’s Maze has an Express Menu that serves up three courses, petit fours and coffee in 45 minutes June 22, 2016 Maze 10-13 Grosvenor Square, W1K What? Gordon Ramsay’s outpost in Mayfair, which plunders classic French cuisine then sprinkles some Asian elements over it. Or you can go full-Asian by booking a spot at the Sushi Bar. The new Express Menu showcases both, offering three courses for £44 (£30 sans booze). Where? A smart spot off [...]
Our resident master-chef Mark Hix says there’s nothing to lift a dinner party like a sophisticated take on a classic egg dish June 22, 2016 I don’t think we make the most of eggs in the UK. In fact, I don’t think most countries do. I’m talking savoury dishes here, not desserts – what would we do without the good old egg in a cake or soufflé? I’ve been a big fan of Clarence court eggs for years now and [...]
The Frog restaurant in Shoreditch review: Masterchef contestant Adam Handling launches an intense new venture that defeats our critic June 21, 2016 Pop quiz: who invented molecular gastronomy? Was it Heston Blumenthal, with his test tubes full of liquid nitrogen? Or Ferran Adria in his beach-side epicurean lair, churning out unholy delicacy after unholy delicacy? No, no, no. That’s all PR. Like most things, molecular gastronomy – a term most chefs, including Heston, hate – was created [...]
These 23 London restaurants just won awards for their wine lists June 17, 2016 We all know London is a city of booze-lovers – but that's just been made official, after 23 of its restaurants were awarded honours at the Wine List Awards. That makes the capital's wine lists the second best in the world. London eateries including St John, Dinner by Heston and The Ledbury were given three-star [...]
Review: Tom Sellers, the man behind Story, strikes gold again with Restaurant Ours June 15, 2016 Tom Sellers seemed to come out of nowhere. Sure, he’s worked for a bunch of great chefs, but aged 26 he opened Story, which made a big enough splash in the London restaurant scene that the ripples are still going. Try getting a table there at the weekend and you’ll see what I mean. The gimmick [...]
Working Lunch review: Absurd Bird in Spitalfields brings the unfussy grub of the Southern States to the East End June 14, 2016 Absurd Bird 54 Commercial Street, E1 What? A gourmet fried chicken restaurant bringing the taste of the Southern States to the East End. As you’d expect, the menu is packed with poultry in all its forms – grilled, fried, even a whole smoked chicken – and there’s a “wing shack” out front for takeaway. A [...]
Our columnist Mark Hix on how his good friend Mark Botwright is changing the way we use garlic in cooking June 14, 2016 What the hell are these?” I wondered when I was first offered garlic scapes by Mark “The Garlic Farmer” Botwright. He’s been secretly experimenting with garlic growing just outside of Charmouth, where I live, for years. He has a unique thing going on down there and he’s unlocked an awful lot of products from this [...]
Mark Hix feeds 10 with a single trout after coming up short in the river June 7, 2016 Mark Hix continues his fishy adventures in Ireland… (For pt.1 click here) Well, I’m sure you were looking forward to reading how many salmon we managed to land on the river bank on day two of my Galway salmon fishing trip? Well I’m going to disappoint you: between you and I, it was zero. Both Peter [...]
Working Lunch: City restaurant L’Anima near Liverpool Street has beetroot tortellini to die for June 7, 2016 L’Anima means “soul” in Italian and the aim of this City-restaurant is is to provide a glimpse into the very soul of southern Italian cuisine, featuring modern takes on hearty classics. The spring menu revolves around fresh, zesty ingredients like artichoke slaw with cured fish roe, and asparagus with egg and guanciale. There’s also a L’Anima [...]
The best vodka: 8 bottles that prove Russia’s finest is a class act June 6, 2016 Vodka is the simplest of all spirits – its name is taken from the Slavic for “little water” – but as connoisseurs of Danish furniture can attest, getting more from less is an art of its own. It may not require months or years of ageing, but it’s a singularly unforgiving spirit, with no juniper [...]