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restaurants

  • Exclusive: Evolv signs star chef as part of ambitious plans

    February 19, 2026

    The Evolv Collection, one of the country’s biggest high-end restaurant groups in the country, has continued its ambitious growth plans with the appointment of highly rated chef Miller Prada as group culinary consultant. With almost 20 years of experience in kitchens including The Ledbury, Pollen Street Social and Endo at the Rotunda, Miller is best [...]

  • Victor Garvey’s mad new MATER1A concept is a Willy Wonka-esque theatre of gastronomy

    February 18, 2026

    MATER1A, 115 Westbourne Grove, W2 4UP | ★★★★★ | Cuisine: Japanese, fine dining, tasting menu A benefit of having written restaurant reviews for 15 years is that you begin to see the overarching warp and weft of the business, the trends that slowly emerge and dissipate, the way hospitality gradually evolves, holding up a mirror [...]

  • Valentine’s Day: Fancy a romantic bowl of chocolate spaghetti?

    February 13, 2026

    What could be more romantic than a meal out in Soho, a bottle of red wine and a nice bowl of chocolate spaghetti? Well, I can think of a few things… The ‘spaghetti bucatini’ at 27 Old Compton Street is being sold not as a dessert but a main course: thick strands of pasta slathered [...]

  • Bar of the week: Why Three Sheets is a little slice of old Soho

    February 10, 2026

    Three Sheets Soho | 13 Manette St, W1D 4AP This new column celebrates the great drinking holes of London, the pubs and bars that keep the capital lubricated despite the government’s best attempts to send them crashing out of business. Last week I profiled The rising Sun, the Victorian gin palace that claimed our Best [...]

  • How to drink sake: A beginner’s guide

    February 10, 2026

    Have you heard the siren call of sake? This Japanese drink is everywhere and it’s the coolest thing to be quaffing (though you can enjoy it chilled, warm or hot). The problem is that it is quite complicated compared to wine, so I have compiled a brief beginner’s guide to make you a speedy sake [...]

  • Khao Bird: Top Thai restaurant takes over Soho’s last dirty cinema

    February 10, 2026

    What could be a greater sign of the times than a hip pop-up restaurant opening on the site of Soho’s last adult cinema?  It’s over! Soho’s dead! First they closed the late night drinking dens and then they pushed out the brothels and now there’s nowhere to watch grubby movies. The final remnants of seedy [...]

  • Alta review: Serious Spanish food amid the Carnaby crowds

    January 28, 2026

    Alta, Kingly Ct, Carnaby, W1B 5PW | Nearest Tube: Oxford Circus With its jolly pink furniture and candy-striped awnings, Kingly Court has an air of unreality. It’s a Disneyfied version of what food culture might look like if it were imagined by a private equity firm, a place designed to house tourists grappling with their disappointment [...]

  • DakaDaka review: The comfort food we all need right now

    January 27, 2026

    DakaDaka, 10 Heddon Street, W1B 4BX | Nearest Tube: Piccadilly Circus Heddon Street has developed its own culinary microclimate. Whether by luck or design, it has become a place where you can almost guarantee a decent plate of food, with its current crop of restaurants including Sabor (superlative Spanish), Fonda (respectable Mexican) and Casa do [...]

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