Dessert master on his nan’s doughnuts September 17, 2013 By Jacob Kenedy , chef and co-owner of Bocca di Lupo and Gelupo THIS recipe for doughnuts comes from my Hungarian grandmother, Agnes. It is quite simply the best doughnut recipe ever, and is absolutely charged with emotion for me. The smell of the rising dough, the hot oil, the sweet yeasty toastiness of freshly [...]
Top spots for healthy lunches September 10, 2013 FITNESS & DIET EXPERT laurawilliamsonline.co.uk @laurafitness Business meals needn’t mean a calorie overdose if you know the right places to go ANYONE can russell up a relatively healthy meal in the confines of their own kitchen; eating out and keeping your calorie-count down can be a little trickier. Chefs have a love-affair with butter and [...]
Forget the English rose, start drinking the English grape September 10, 2013 Bottle.opener@cityam.com LAST Friday the day job took me to visit the vineyards of Chapel Down in Kent. The visit left me with no end of ideas and information and spurred me into action. I have always been a sceptic about English wine. Let’s face it, we live far closer to the Arctic than the Equator [...]
The real Willy Wonka is as experimental as ever September 10, 2013 Think you love chocolate the most? Elizabeth Fournier meets choc-God Paul A Young IT’S NOT hard to be passionate about chocolate, but Paul A Young takes it to a whole new level. Reviewers and customers alike may wax lyrical about his imaginative creations, which include Marmite brownies and Eccles cake truffles. Get him talking on [...]
Five wacky Paul A Young Creations September 10, 2013 The Marmite brownie It may look like a regular brownie but Marmite’s distinctively salty tang is lurking inside. Limoncello and cucumber It may sound more like a cocktail but it’s actually a light, zingy confectionary creation. Cigar leaf caramel Young is famed for his caramel and here he pairs it with a heavy, spicy cigar [...]
Review: Rock Lobsta at Mahiki August 20, 2013 RESTAURANT 1 Dover St, Mayfair, W1S 4LD Tel: 020 7493 9529 FOOD Four Stars VALUE Three Stars ATMOSPHERE Three Stars Cost for two with drinks: £100 Once upon a time I worked for a newspaper in Bermuda called the Mid Ocean News. I say “worked” – we didn’t actually do very much. Every Friday we’d [...]
Mix it up: That’s not a Papa Doble…. I’ll show you a Papa Doble August 20, 2013 DESPITE the growing popularity of cocktails, many Y-chromosome-carrying homo sapiens still consider mixed drinks too effeminate for public consumption. It wasn’t always thus. Just read the stories of Ernest Hemingway: “Papa”, in his life and in his deeply autobiographical writing, makes modern models of masculinity look like 17th century foppishness. But the good work of [...]
Review: Joe’s Southern Kitchen & Bar August 13, 2013 RESTAURANT 34 King Street, Covent Garden Tel: 020 7240 4008 FOOD Three Stars VALUE Three Stars ATMOSPHERE Three Stars Cost for two without drinks: £45 Restaurant critics are like Eskimos: we lead isolated lives and are prone to eating seal blubber. No, that’s not it. We’re like Eskimos because we both have 20 words for [...]
Mix it up: Wake up and smell the Kahlua: a remedy to the daily grind August 13, 2013 IN 17th century Britain, coffee houses sprung up across London. Idle gossip, radical ideas and business matters were traded freely between men of diverse wealth and class. Unsurprisingly, those with the most to lose were not keen on this outpouring of freedom. Charles II’s edict tried to rid the country of the “very evil and [...]
Review: Ametsa with Arzak Instruction August 6, 2013 The Halkin Hotel, Belgravia, SW1X 7DJ Tel: 020 7333 1234 FOOD Four stars VALUE Three stars ATMOSPHERE One star Cost per person for tasting menu and matched wine: £145 Ametsa With Arzak Instruction; there’s a restaurant that’s just begging to be hated. It’s the first fine-dining export from the Arzak family (the current iteration being [...]