Where to go on holiday? That’s easy: Andalucía is the natural choice
The coronavirus pandemic has changed many of our attitudes and the way we do things, but now that international travel restrictions are being eased after two years when it has been difficult and often inadvisable to go anywhere, many people are starting to think about having a holiday this year.
The big question, of course, is where to go? There may still be a reluctance to take expensive and exhausting long-distance flights, especially with children in tow, and the Covid situation is still looking tricky in some European countries. Spain is, however, as it has always been, a convenient, safe and reliable holiday destination for people in the UK, because it is close to home andhas an awful lot to offer, especially Andalucía, in the south of the country.
Andalucía was Spain’s first tourist destination, so it has decades of experience, top class facilities and the knowhow to provide what visitors want. Strangely enough, although its climate, beaches and resorts are famous worldwide, not so many people are aware that it is also an ideal destination for rural and sporting tourism.
This is, after all, the largest region of Spain, and it has more protected nature areas than anywhere else in the country. There are three National Parks (Doñana, in Huelva province, the Sierra Nevada in Granada and Almería and the recently classified Sierra de las Nieves biosphere reserve in Malaga) and more than 20 nature reserves with some of the biggest and best-preserved Mediterranean woodlands in the country,providing a refuge for species of wildlife in danger of extinction.
All this countryside and open space make this the perfect holiday destination for those who fancy getting out and about in Nature, and because Andalucía is so large and has so many contrasting areas, it lends itself to exploring by car or motorbike, on foot, cycle, horseback or even sailing around its approximately 1,000 kms of coastline, which stretches from Huelva, near the border with Portugal, to Almería.
One option, for those who have enough time, is to travel around, spending a few days in two or more different areas and exploring what they have to offer. Otherwise, it’s a case of choosing the place that appeals most, and settling down for a happy and relaxing holiday, doing what you like best.
Fancy a walk?
Anyone who is keen on walking will love Andalucía, and there are numerous routes to follow in every part of the region. Look out for the so-called Vías Verdes; many of these run along disused railway lines, such as the Vía Verde de la Sierra, a 32 kilometre-long route between Olvera and Puerto Serrano in Cádíz province where you can stop off at the Zaframagón vulture observatory along the way; and the Vía Verde de Riotinto, which is 35 kms in length and follows the route the trains used to take to the old Riotinto mines in Huelva.
There are around 30 Vías Verdes in Andalucía altogether, and some are on a particular theme, such asolive oil, birdwatching, water mills or archaeological sites.One particularly lovely option, and one which will appeal to birdwatchers, is the Vía Verde Litoral, which runs parallel to the coast between Huelva and Ayamonte, although it should be noted that it is only suitable for walkers rather than cyclists, as the track is in poor condition in places. It follows the old railway line along which fish was transported from Isla Cristina and Lepe to Madrid, and minerals from El Andévalo to the coast, andit will take you from the banks of the Odiel river to the Guadiana river on the border with Portugal, crossing a valuable natural area of marshland where flamingos build their nests.
In fact, the Vía Verde del Litoral runs through three marshes along the Huelva coast which have been classified as Protected Nature Areas and Special Protection Areas for birds. They are very important breeding and hibernation grounds, and are a popular stopping point on the migration route.
These are just a few of the wide variety of walking routes in every region of Andalucía, but there are very many more, ranging from gentle strolls to day-long hikes up mountains or along the coast, all amid beautiful surroundings.
Something completely different
As mentioned earlier, Andalucía is a land of contrasts: after all, this is the place where you can spend a winter’s morning on the ski slopes in Granada’s Sierra Nevada and then soak up some sun on the beach that same afternoon.
And speaking of Granada province and contrasts, if you fancy something completely different and unexpected, you can take a walk or book a 4×4 trip to explore the rather spectacular Gorafe Desert. Yes, you did read that right. A desert. In the most mountainous region of Andalucía.
How is this possible? Well, the Guadix-Baza Depression is an inland sedimentary basin, surrounded by mountains, relatively high above sea level and fluvial in nature. In the centre, there was once a lake teeming with life. Some 100,000 years ago, its waters spilled into the Guadalquivir River Valley by way of the Guadiana Menor river, leaving behind the evidence of millions of years of activity etched on the rocks and ground.
The edges of the Depression have become palaeontological sites of extraordinary value.There are remains of the oldest hominids in Europe at Venta Micena, in Orce, as well as abundant and varied examples of large mammals from the Pliocene period in Fonelas.
Erosion is one of the main features of the landscape in this area and it has created spectacular badlands, so named because of their dry, ravine-like nature. These shapes give the region its unique character, and they are especially varied and extraordinary in the central part of the basin.
Gorafe is the name of the main town here, and its attractive location, numerous cave houses and more than 240 dolmens in the Megalithic Park make it one of the most picturesque in the province. As the starting point of this route, it is a great base for exploring one of the most remarkable landscapes in Europe: its large gullies and colourful sandstone formations are like spectacular film settings. As Professor Eduardo Martínez Sáezdescribed it: “The desert offers an impressive panorama, a myriad of colours that change throughout day: shades of ochre, red, yellow… and a total silence that reveals the mystery of life”….
If that sort of thing appeals to you and you are alsoattracted by eastern Andalucía – the province of Almería and its desert landscapes– then the ‘landslides of Partaloa’ will also be of interest. Here, you walk through an area where erosion and sedimentation has produced a gentle slope between the sides of the mountain and the lower parts of the valleys, called glacis. This has happened in many places in Almería province (Rambla de Oria, in Albox, the Tabernas desert, El Chorrillo in Pechina), but the formation inPartaloa is so characteristic that professional geologists and landscapersgenerically refer to this type of erosion as a‘partaloa’.
If you want a truly different day out, then you should head to the Oasys – Tabernas Desert Theme Park. The Tabernas Desert in Almería was the setting, in the sixties and seventies, for some of the most successful Westerns of the era: “A Fistful of Dollars”; “For a Few Dollars More” or “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly” to name just a few. The Oasys – Tabernas Desert Theme Park, which covers an area of 30 hectares, maintains the “western town” (mini-Hollywood) that was used in the films; as well as an animal park with 800 animals of 200 different species.
Relaxing on a beach or by a pool is a great option on holiday, but for those who fancy being a bit more active and living the outdoor life to the full, southern Spain is just the place.
Debbie Bartlett
Pick a sport, any sport…
Feeling sporty, rather than just active? Thanks to the climate and its topography, Andalucía is a year-round destination and the very best in Spain for sports lovers. Nowhere has more days of sunshine throughout the year or better facilities. Think of a sport, any sport, and you will be able to do it here – yes, even skiing in winter at Europe’s most southerly ski resort at Pradollano in Granada province, where the first snow usually falls in November.
Because of the beautiful beaches, though, water sports are probably the first to spring to mind. Windsurfing and kitesurfing are hugely popular, especially in and near Tarifa on the Costa de la Luz in Cádiz province, the mecca for these sports. Sailing is possible everywhere, as are water-skiing, swimming, diving and snorkelling, but let’s not forget that Andalucía also has many lakes and rivers. Fresh water is lovely to swim in and some rivers and reservoirs have natural beaches where you can sunbathe in the very heart of nature.
Plenty of companies offer kayaking and even white-water rafting for those of a more daring nature. Three rivers in Andalucía are brilliant for first-class rafting: on the Genil, you can do it at Cuevas Bajas and Cuevas de San Marcos in Malaga province; Benamejí in Córdoba and Badolatosa in Seville.
In Jaén province, the Upper Guadalquivir in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas natural park is a particularly beautiful setting, and in Granada province, near the town of Órgiva, there is excellent rafting and stunning mountain views during the months when the snow is thawing.
If air sports are your thing, you can find hang-gliding, paragliding, skydiving and hot air ballooning facilities in almost every province in Andalucía. For those who prefer to get their thrills underground rather than up in the air, there are deep marine caves, hidden caverns, dark labyrinths, narrow fissures… a complete world below the surface. Some of the most popular caving sites are in Málaga province, near Igualeja, Ronda and Nerja, but Ventanas de Piñar in Granada province is also very well-known.
So many adventure sports are possible in this region that there are too many to list and you may never have heard of some of them. Tyrolean traverse, for example, or Tibetan bridge? It is important to remember, though, that some are not suitable for amateurs or those who are not in peak physical condition, and it is essential to use the services of a registered professional company for any of these activities; don’t try to go it alone, no matter how easy it may look.
Of course, you don’t have to be adventurous to enjoy sport in Andalucía. All the ‘normal’ sports can be practised here, and they are just as thrilling to their fans: take golf, for example. There are over 100 excellent courses in the region, many of them in Malaga province: the Costa del Sol isn’t known as the Costa del Golf for nothing. Racquet sports, water sports, horse riding, cycling, running, fishing: whatever you enjoy doing, you can do it here, all year round.
Two years of a pandemic have taken their toll on everyone. Getting out in the fresh air amid nature brings with it a feel-good factor, and there is nowhere better to do it than in beautiful Andalucía: 100% natural.
Magical, mystical and moving: Easter week in Andalucía
A visit to Andalucía at Easter should be on everyone’s bucket list, whether they have any religious faith or none. Semana Santa, to give Holy Week its Spanish name, is not just about seeing unique and spectacular processions; it is a complete experience, to be lived and shared, that will never be forgotten.
So, with not a hot cross bun in sight, what can you expect from Andalucía at this time of year? Well, close your eyes, and imagine…
Imagine ancient city streets, silent despite the throngs of people. Darkness, illuminated by candles on the massive, ornate images of Christ and the Virgin Mary, their immense weight borne on the shoulders of dozens of men and women for whom the pain and strain is an honour.
You won’t find chocolate eggs, bunnies and bonnets but this, the most important date in the calendar in Spain’s most southerly region, will definitely leave you craving more
Debbie Bartlett
Hooded penitents, the swish of robes, the rhythmic beat of drums. The brief ring of a handbell to tell the procession when to stop and when to begin again. Saetas – haunting, flamenco-style, religious songs – sung from a balcony or an open window to the images of Jesus and Mary as they pass by. The pungent fragrance of incense, mingling with the blossom of the orange trees which line the city streets.
The utter devotion, the spirituality, the intensity of feeling and emotion, the excitement, the sense of togetherness among strangers drawn together to share this incredible experience.
This is Semana Santa in Andalucía, celebrated everywhere, from big cities to tiny villages. There is plenty to do, including passion plays, exhibitions and activities during this week-long event, which somehow manages to be similar, yet different, wherever you happen to be, but it is the processions that transform towns and cities and make this an unforgettable experience.
There are so many places to choose from and so much to see, but to give you an idea, let’s take a peek at three of Andalucía’s most famous cities: Seville, Malaga and Granada.
Holy Week in Seville
Seville is the region’s beautiful capital city and nearly 60 religious brotherhoods take to the streets between Palm Sunday and Easter Sunday to recreate the Passion, Death and Resurrection of Christ. Holy Week here is considered an art form in itself, a combination of the religious and the artistic, the serious and the joyful, the simple and the flamboyant. Every single day is truly spectacular.
Most processions take place in the evenings and at night, and many continue into the early hours. Each one leaves from its church and returns by a different route after passing through the ‘official section’, which goes past the cathedral. They can be watched anywhere along the route, although the seats and stands in the official section have to be booked in advance.
In Malaga
In Malaga, where there are over 40 processions in all, the excitement starts to build at dawn on Easter Monday, when people gather at the San Pablo church to see the figures of Jesús Cautivo and María Santísima de la Trinidad brought out and placed on the floats on which they will be carried around the city. They are normally accompanied by thousands of penitents, many of whom live in La Trinidad district.
This city is also famous for a very unusual tradition: on Easter Wednesday, a prisoner is granted their freedom by Nuestro Padre Jesús el Rico. This dates back to the time of Charles III, when prisoners escaped from jail but returned voluntarily after carrying the figure of Christ through the streets to pray for the city to be spared from the cholera epidemic. Every year since then, the prisoner who is selected for freedom has taken part in this Wednesday procession.
Also unusually, some processions in Malaga are accompanied by military bands which are associated with the religious brotherhoods, such as the Regular Army with El Cautivo, the Spanish Legion with Cristo de la Buena Muerte, the Paratroopers with Ánimas de Ciegos, the Marines with La Soledad and the Cavalry with La Zamarilla. The solemn Cofradía de la Expiración procession, on the other hand, is accompanied by the Civil Guard.
In Granada
Granada, once again, is different from the rest. There are 32 processions altogether, but anyone lucky enough to be in this city on the night of Easter Wednesday should be sure to head for the Sacromonte gypsy district to see the Cristo del Consuelo and María Santísima del Sacromonte, with both floats decorated in bright purple, red and gold. This is also when the famous Cristo de los Gitanos – Christ of the Gypsies – procession takes place, accompanied by dancers and with huge bonfires blazing in caves and outside homes on the hills.
The following night, Maundy Thursday, Granada’s other gypsy district, the Albaycín, is the place to be, for something completely different. This is when the beautiful Cristo del Silencio procession takes place, in complete silence broken only by the sound of drums.
And at dusk on Good Friday, those in the know will be at the Convent of Los Jerónimos, ready for the procession by the oldest of the city’s religious brotherhoods, the Soledad de San Jerónimo, which is led by people dressed as figures from the Bible. This is a spectacular sight, with the penitents wearing bright yellow hoods and a squadron of Roman troops beating the ground with their lances as they walk.
Easter is Andalucía really is something special. And the best thing of all? That everyone is welcome to come and share.
More information at: https://www.andalucia.org/en/home