London’s best pub crawl through our Toast the City finalists
As we prepare to reveal the City’s best boozer at our Toast the City awards, we sent wine writer Libby Brodie on a pub crawl through some of the contenders
Nowhere in the world does pubs like the City of London. We have absolutely nailed it. We do firesides, board games, slowly poured pints, waxy barstools opposite attentive bartenders and well-worn armchairs below ancient oil paintings.
We offer everything from lively pubs with juke boxes and ferociously printed, stain-hiding carpets, to dusky dwellings that look like the set for Diagon Alley. The Square Mile is steeped in history, and our public houses are another intrinsic part of it. Here at City AM we take pub culture seriously – indeed, we will soon reveal the winner of our Toast the City award for best boozer.
So I decided to go on a pub crawl to three of our Toast the City finalists, all within comfortable walking distance for a perfect afternoon’s drinking. Here is the best pub crawl in the Square Mile.
The Blackfriar
Opposite Blackfriars underground station you will find The Blackfriar, named for the 13th century monastery which was once on this site. The Blackfriar pub, however, is an Art Nouveau creation of gilded marble and intricate mosaics. This should be your first visit, take in the design detailing and check out the frescoes of beer-brewing monks. Monks are responsible for so much of our alcohol traditions so it’s worth raising a glass or two to them here before heading on.
The Cockpit
When you leave, take a few steps to the right along Queen Victoria Street and turn left up St Andrew’s Hill to the black and gold frontage of The Cockpit. Hung with baskets of flowers and heritage lanterns, it is tiny and pretty, but it is named not for aviation pioneers but for the gruesome sport of cockfighting.
When The Cockpit was built in 1860, cock fighting was a popular pastime and the pub still features a spectator gallery where punters used to watch the birds battle below. It is also built on the approximate site that William Shakespeare apparently bought a house for £140. I wonder what he would make of central London property prices today.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
Keep walking up St Andrew’s Hill and turn left onto Carter Lane, right onto Burgon Street and out onto Ludgate Hill. Cross the road to the church and head down the hill to Fleet Street. Here you need to keep your eyes peeled for the narrow alleyway leading to Wine Office Court.
This is where you will settle in for the night at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. This is one of London’s oldest pubs. Originally established in 1538 and rebuilt in 1667 following the Great Fire of London, it became the boozer of choice for Charles Dickens, Dr Samuel Johnson and Mark Twain. It is a maze of sawdust-covered floors, dark wood panelling, antique paintings and roaring open fires. After a few drinks, tuck into a traditional steak and kidney pudding for dinner. This pub has winter nights written all over it.
Wine Recommendations
Roebuck 2019 Blanc de Blancs, £50, roebuckestate.co.uk
Another beautiful bottle released by West Sussex’s Roebuck. It is delicate and perfect as an aperitif with its finely tuned citrus and blossom notes and gentle whispers of toasted hazelnut. There is a generosity despite the fine bones of this wine, which makes it feel indulgent.
Hospices de Beaujeu, Domaine Jean Gaudet, Morgon, £18.25, Oxford Wine Company
A deeper shade of Beaujolais, this elegant and expressive Gamay grape wine fits nicely with the seasonal change. Warming baking spices undercut the red petal and ripe berry notes, it is Summer becoming Autumn in bottle and ideal with roasts and grills.
Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, £32, Waitrose
This is a class act and will be appearing at all my dinner parties this month. I cannot imagine anyone not enjoying this classic Chablis. It holds its poise while offering tons of vivacity and flavour. Steely and crisp with ripe apple, bright zest and a long, lingering finish. Superb.