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Food

  • Meander through London on the trail of great Italian food

    October 8, 2013

    London Restaurant Festival’s Ciccheti Trail is a foodie’s dream THE PUB crawl, once a concept that filled my youthful soul with an inordinate degree of excitement, nowadays seems somewhat antiquated. Is this my fault – is it simply that I have grown into a dour 30-something severely lacking any kind of alacrity? Or is the [...]

  • Mix it up

    October 8, 2013

    @philip_salter I’VE just found out it’s National Inclusion Week. Nobody told me so I’m feeling rather left out. It’s also National Curry Week, and no doubt a dozen other “Weeks” that are busy passing us all by. One worth taking note of though is hosted in this great city of ours; in fact, in my [...]

  • Restaurant review: Berners Tavern

    October 1, 2013

    BERNERS TAVERN The London Edition Hotel, 10 Berners St Tel: 020 7908 7979 FOOD Two Stars VALUE Two Stars ATMOSPHERE Two Stars Cost for two with drinks: £110 Berners Tavern sounds like a nice little place, doesn’t it? Like a Somerset country inn that’s been converted to a gastropub by an ex-Londoner with a moustache [...]

  • Mix it up: You don’t have to be a supertaster to enjoy a cognac cocktail

    October 1, 2013

    MAN is a social animal; so is woman for that matter. And it is through our interactions with others that we acquire our tastes, values and prejudices. Even the way we perceive the world is influenced by when and where we live. Take our perception of colour: seeing my five-year-old niece dressed – of her [...]

  • Restaurant review: Boulestin

    September 24, 2013

    RESTAURANT 5 St James’s Street, SW1A 1EF Tel: 020 7930 2030 FOOD Three Stars VALUE Three Stars ATMOSPHERE One Star Cost for two with drinks: £140 An occupational hazard of being a restaurant critic is that people often ask you where they should go for dinner, or for recommendations of who does the best ostrich [...]

  • There must be more to life than Sauvignon Bland

    September 24, 2013

    BOTTLE.OPENER@CITYAM.COM AS I PUSHED my supermarket trolley down another aisle of dull whites this weekend, I realised that we all need a little more democracy in our glasses. This is Party Conference season, after all. I am talking, of course, about the Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc duopoly. In the past few years these two grape types have [...]

  • Restaurant review: 1701

    September 17, 2013

    RESTAURANT Bevis Marks Synagogue, EC3A 5DQ Tel: 020 7621 1701 FOOD Four stars VALUE Three stars ATMOSPHERE Four stars Cost for two with matched wine: £115 I GOT back from my holiday last week to another of life’s crushing milestones: I can no longer fit into my work suit. It’s all downhill from here. And [...]

  • Mix it up: Insect cocktails: it’s just not crickets… Or is it?

    September 17, 2013

    @philip_salter Throughout my childhood I had more pets than you could shake a stick at – dogs, cats, rabbits, hamsters, guinea pigs, rats and even chinchillas. But one clearly stands out from the menagerie. At the tender age of 12 I excitedly dragged my parents to an exotic pet shop to buy an iguana: I [...]

  • Gelupo’s goodies

    September 17, 2013

    Venezuelan chocolate and English strawberry gelato Part of the low-fat, low-sugar, high protein, and high fibre G-Fit range of desserts – a healthier alternative to ice cream Sour cherry and mint rustichella gelato Always on the menu, the sharp fruit is balanced out with a swirl of savoury ricotta cheese. Unusual but popular. Coconut and [...]

  • Dessert master on his nan’s doughnuts

    September 17, 2013

    By Jacob Kenedy , chef and co-owner of Bocca di Lupo and Gelupo THIS recipe for doughnuts comes from my Hungarian grandmother, Agnes. It is quite simply the best doughnut recipe ever, and is absolutely charged with emotion for me. The smell of the rising dough, the hot oil, the sweet yeasty toastiness of freshly [...]

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