This egg is only in season for the next six weeks – get it while you can May 10, 2016 The first time I saw gulls’ eggs on a menu was during my my first job in London at the Ninety Park Lane restaurant in Grosvenor House. I was still a bit of a green lad from Dorset and I remember saying “I thought I’d escaped these flying terrorists when I left the seaside”. We [...]
Mark Hix on the classic Negroni: A bitter pill to cure your ills May 3, 2016 Although I’m rather partial to hardcore cocktails, I arrived to the Negroni party late – about ten years ago – because the medicinal flavour didn’t really do it for me. Then, like with so many things, the Groucho changed my life: now it’s my cocktail of choice. My bar staff even put one in my [...]
Eight of the best gins to rock your world April 29, 2016 The beginnings of the gin craze are shrouded in notoriety. Just over 100 years ago it was the scourge of the working classes, an unregulated, often highly toxic spirit that was more cheaply and easily available than fresh water (hence its nickname Mother’s Ruin). The following half a century saw its reputation improve until it [...]
How Nyetimber put English wines on the map April 29, 2016 My good friend Pierre Emanuel Taittinger has decided to buy a tract of Kentish orchard, grub it up, plant vines and join the Gadarene rush into the English industry. And if he’s prepared to put his name to a drop of vin d’Albion, we really must be doing something right. But by the time he's [...]
Celebrity vineyards: Who makes the best wine, Donald Trump, Cliff Richard or Angelina Jolie? April 29, 2016 Feel depressed about the US presidential election? Need a stiff glass of something to steel yourself against the carnival of bigotry unfolding in the Republican ranks? Well, why not indulge in a large glass of Trump? I’m afraid it’s true: Donald Trump is a winemaker. Down in Virginia there is a 200 acre winery that [...]
Kojawan restaurant at the Hilton Metropole is like a retro-futuristic art gallery in the sky April 26, 2016 Andrew Baggs overcomes a fear of high restaurants to thoroughly enjoy this Asian fusion izakaya Food | ★★★★☆ | Value ★★★★☆ | Vibe ★★★★☆ | Hilton Metropole, 225 Edgware Rd, W2 1JU Tel: 020 8088 0111 | Cost for two with wine: £140 I have, over the years, learnt to read the restaurant warning signs. There is an inverse relationship between [...]
Who fancies a cow’s milk vodka and asparagus cocktail? Mark Hix serves up a storm in his new column April 26, 2016 Asparagus is one of our most fantastic seasonal vegetables, which traditionally would have a short season from about May to June. But things have changed and these days there’s high demand for cheaper imported stuff from Peru and Spain, which has put a bit of strain on our British growers. Believe it or not, I [...]
Vico review: The fast-food Cambridge Circus trattoria is reborn as a grown up, sit down, complete dining experience April 19, 2016 Dominating an entire corner of Cambridge Circus, Vico was once a grand yet informal arancini outpost serving superfast Italian street food to exiting theatre audiences. But since relaunching in December the pace has mellowed, a giant indoor fountain has appeared, comfortable tables and chairs invite you to stick around and the expanded menu has evolved [...]
Mark Hix re-assesses Venice on a 48-hour whistle-stop tour of its local foodie gems April 19, 2016 The last and only time I visited Venice was some years ago for the Bianale when Tracy Emin was representing the UK. It was a brief trip; I was probably only there for 36 hours and didn't see an awful lot except for a load of the London art crowd, which made it something of [...]
The Woodford review: Fine dining hits TOWIE country April 19, 2016 Food | ★★★★☆ Value | ★★★☆☆ Atmosphere | ★★★★★ 159 High Rd, London E18 2PA Tel: 020 8504 5952 I’m going to open a restaurant. It’s going to be just outside the North Circular – not technically in Essex, but close enough that people from central London will sneer – in a former nightclub that was shut down [...]