Working Lunch: Ceviche Old St

Steve Hogarty
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Ceviche Old St

WHAT? Ceviche Old Street specialises, unsurprisingly enough, in the South American dish of ceviche. Its diverse bar serves up freshly prepared seafood in the classic Peruvian style using tiger’s milk, a sparky and citric marinade that has absolutely nothing to do with tigers.

WHERE? A minute’s stroll from Old Street Tube and tucked inside the former Alexandra Trust Dining Rooms on Baldwin Street. Now beautifully restored to its former glory, the building lay derelict for years and until recently played host to many an illegal rave.

WHO? This is founder Martin Morales third London venture, following Ceviche Soho and Andina in Shoreditch.

ORDER THIS... The Don Ceviche is the star player here, with meaty chunks of cured seabass so tasty you’d think the fish had drowned in its amarillo chilli tiger’s milk marinade. From the grill you should grab the gently spicy Lamb Cutlet Tacu Tacu, but don’t overlook dessert, where you’ll find a canoe of pumpkin doughnuts in a sticky puddle of sweet chancaca honey.

BUSINESS OR PLEASURE? This is a bright and easy-going place, you could definitely swing a lunchtime meeting over the tapas-sized sharing dishes.

NEED TO BOOK? Ceviche will take bookings over the phone and online. There’s also a private dining area for groups of up to 24.

THE VERDICT... Astonishingly good fish in comfortably classy surroundings, Ceviche Old Street is at the vanguard of a Peruvian cuisine revolution.

ONE MORE THING... The pisco bar will mix you a Peruvian cocktail, as well as Ceviche’s unique take on classics like the Negroni and Old Fashioned, made using pisco and botanicals to replicate familiar gin and whiskey flavours.

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