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THREE OTHER MEATY RESTAURANTS

MAZE GRILL
Jason Atherton’s more casual offshoot of Maze, the emphasis here is on steak, though everything else is good too. A waiter appears with a bundle of raw meat, from which you choose what appeals. There’s a range of British and American beef of different ages, and Wagyu. Not cheap, but certainly delicious. 10 Grosvenor Street, W1K 6JP, tel: 020 7495 2211.

GOODMAN
Widely touted by those who have visited to serve the most divine steaks in London, this Russian-owned restaurant has an appealing atmosphere, attractive, dusky interior and a pleasing range of American steak, British meat, plenty of other well-executed dishes and naughty desserts. 26 Maddox Street, W1S 1QH,
tel: 020 7499 3776.

HIGH TIMBER
With a superb view of the Thames and a 40,000-strong wine cellar, this restaurant has fast become a favourite with the City lunch crowd that enjoys a killer steak, oozing with flavour, served on a board with roasted cherry tomatoes, mushrooms and onion rings, and washed down with a brilliant red. The fish is good here too. 8 High Timber Street, EC4V 3PA, tel: 020 7248 1777.