THE eating establishment reviewed above is the polar opposite to the one discussed here. Where that one is brashly glamorous and made for Euro-trotting Russians, this one is beautifully humble, studiedly homely and completely spot-on food-wise. It is equally trendy, of course, but rather it’s a Boho teacup whereas Aqua is a towering martini glass.

So it is with great altruistic passion that I tell you: don’t let the Savoy Truffle Supperclub pop-up in north London in mid-October, in association with the London Restaurant Festival, pass you by. Held monthly in a chef’s living room or other quirky locale, I went for a private taste a few weeks ago at the original Blackheath location in the living room of founders Gavin Billenness (former Acorn House chef) and his partner. The moment I walked in I entered gastro-heaven and did not leave it until it was over. First we mingled amid floral tablecloths and sipped elderflower bellinis by an open window.

Dinner itself was a slew of local, seasonal vegetables combining eye-watering panache with equally well-sourced cheese and fish. Home-baked bread in tins was on constant rotation between kitchen and table, and excellent white and red wine was served in abundance.

The Supperclub will pop up for five nights in an undisclosed location, and will feature veggies from the chef’s organic allotment.

Don’t miss out on London’s superlative take on the gastro-speakeasy. (New York: eat your heart out). 13-17 Oct at north London location. Five-course dinner costs £65, including wine and Bombay Sapphire cocktails. To book or find out more information, visit www.savoytrufflesupperclub.com.