Michelin verdict in but lacks sparkle

ON Twitter, food-lovers were counting down the minutes to the Great Britain & Ireland Guide, and though there were grumbles that there was very little change in the restaurants awarded two and three stars, the Bib Gourmand category, which indicates “good food at moderate prices” most reflected the change in London restaurants over the last two years.

Recognition of London’s increasing fondness for casual restaurants is evidenced by the awarding of the Bib Gourmand to the darlings of the food scene: Russell Norman’s Polpo and da Polpo, Koya, the Opera Tavern (part of the Salt Yard group), cult favourite Sushi Say, Bermondsey Street’s José, and Brawn, which joins its sister Terroirs.

Heston Blumenthal’s Dinner and the Scandinavian North Road in Farringdon have gained one star as has Jason Atherton’s critically acclaimed Pollen Street Social. Bray’s Fat Duck and Waterside Inn retain their three star status as does London’s Gordon Ramsay and Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. Helena Lee