The locks lowdown
18 September 2012 3:08am
FASHION moves so fast it is often hard to keep up. Gone are the days of the mods and rockers, collections being shown in the spring and the spring/summer 2013 collections having been broadcast across London only in the last few days, it all becomes very confusing. Should we be wearing autumn styles now or should we already be looking ahead to the next season? For those who find this all a bit puzzling, do not fear – we have the hairstyles and looks that will keep you on trend throughout the coming months.
LONG TEXTURED TRESSES
Loose, lustrous locks are a key trend; the manes have returned. It is all about a carefree approach and attitude, with hair left natural and long. Texture is making a big come back, so put down those straighteners and let your hair find its natural wave. Bear in mind, though, that having an air of the dishevelled isn’t the same as messy – it should still look dressed. To create a naturallooking wave, use a double-barrel curling iron, wind random sections of hair around it in a figure of eight pattern and secure use hair spray. Good colour is key to this look to ensure a beautifully feminine appearance. There is no excuse for poor condition, so make sure your tresses are long and groomed, not a rattailed mess. For a pretty look, clip back the front of the hair, as seen in Gucci’s AW12 show.
Kevin Ryan from Aveda says: “This style looks totally effortless… It’s laid-back and untroubled – think of driving along the coast with the windows down: sexy, pretty, natural.”
The bob takes on a 60s feel, although it adopts a more tousled, looser look. Avoid harsh styles and chose a more ethereal image for the months ahead. If you want a reference, look no further than the always-on-message Miss Geldof, who flies the flag for the “undone” bob. Texture is key with “invisible” layers inserted throughout the head of hair. These layers allow for volume and body, without being too noticeable or severe. There is a sense of grunginess to this look; a messy approach that sits well for those who want to look on trend without the fuss. If you’re not brave enough to take the chop, then create the faux bob as Marc Jacobs did in his spring/summer 13 New York show. This is done by pinning hair back at the nape of the neck and securing with pins. Roughen with your fingers to create texture and sweep to the side for a more interesting look. Sarah Louise, creative director at Daniel Hersheson says: “It is all about messy bobs, avoid anything blunt and too sharp.”
Often a reminder of school days and sweaty sports lessons, the ponytail has made a big come back. Worn low either with a middle or more fashionable side parting, this is now the epitome of sophistication. Sleek ponytails made an appearance in many of the autumn/winter 2012 shows, and it doesn’t look like it is going away any time soon. In Behnaz Sarafpour’s spring/summer 2013 New York show, ponytails took a messier turn with rougher textures giving a less polished, more romantic feel. To achieve this look you will need to prep you hair with blow dry lotion for nourishment and texture. Backcomb hair at the crown in chunky sections to add volume, pull hair to the back of the head and secure in a low ponytail at the nape of the neck. Cover with hair spray to hold in place. Aveda global creative director Antoinette Beenders says his approach to the low ponytail is “inspired by an 18th century pilgrim, but with a dramatic, roughed up
Fringes are often a tricky look to pull off. Our weather doesn’t make it easy for us poor Brits, with the constant rain and wind often transforming this fashionable cut into a fluffy mess. However, when pulled off and properly managed, it can look effortlessly cool. Follow in the footsteps of Alexa Chung and model Freja Beha Erichsen and opt for a textured choppy fringe. Low hooded styles give a sexy, sultry look, whilst a higher sharper cut, like Rooney Mara’s, allows for pronounced cheekbones. Texture will make a big splash so make sure that you allow your fringe to be playful, with choppy layers added to give a softer feel. Loose shaping around the face will also offer a flattering silhouette. It is important that you chose a style to suit the shape of your face, so make sure you consult an expert. Frankie Pullen, style director of Daniel Galvin advises: “If you have a square jaw, avoid fringes going straight across – you need a slightly rounded cut, with longer parts to the sides to properly frame the face.”
The short shaven sides and long on top haircut has swept the nation. Everyone from businessmen to scruffy students sport this look, thanks to a certain Mr Beckham and his impressive trip down the Thames with the Olympic torch. Looking back to old military styles, this cut finds its place in modern culture with a longer, more textured top. To create a more dapper look, sweep the top hair over to the side to create a handsome and neat silhouette. This look is ideal for those who wish to be smart but maintain a certain edge.
The look is created by shaving the sides, either with a razor, or by a scissor-overcomb method, whilst gradually working your way up to the longer quiff on top. To gain extra height, dampen hair and blow dry away from the face whilst lifting the front section away from the hairline. Dale Ted Watkins, a grooming expert at Fudge, says this style will give you “strength, masculinity, quality and craftsmanship.”
SLEEK AND SUAVE
This style is sleek and dapper. Hair is swept to the side and quiffs are flattened as side partings take prevalence. A glossy sheen of product gives this look an air of control and harks back to the days of Downton Abbey and gentlemanly graces. To achieve this look, a fair amount of product is required although most modern men won’t find this too much of a chore, especially given the resulting air of sophistication and style. Apply strong mousse, dampen hair and blow-dry throughout.
To complete the image, comb hair into a side parting and brush away from the face. Avoid being excessive with product, or this look will go from stylish to sleazy. Marcio Oliveira, senior stylist at Jo Hansford, says this look will continue into the summer months but will become softer. He says: “We are seeing the side parting trend translate into the men’s spring/summer 2013 catwalk looks,” however unlike before, “the hair will fall to the side in a tousled fashion.”
Men have been moving towards stronger, more masculine looks these last few months and will continue to do so for the winter. Men who want quality should look back to a time when bespoke grooming was at its best. Toni & Guy describes this look as “Elvis meets Clint Eastwood for a dapper ‘Dirty Harry’ style.” Hair is swept backward and is cut close to the head. This harks back to before the 60s, when grooming and appearance were a top priority for men and there was no scruffiness or “bed head” hair. Don Draper would approve. This follows much the same philosophy as the sleek and suave style, but the quiff is pushed back and paste is run through the hair for a strong slick hold.
James Galvin, style director at Daniel Galvin, says: “There is a very vintage feel this autumn, with the Mad Men style finding a longer look in the winter.”
In fashion, a contradiction of trends will always prevail, and while many men are turning to shorter cuts, there are those who are embracing their natural locks. To achieve this natural look, embrace your curls, avoid heavy products and grooming and allow for a fuss free, soft style. The most obvious example is Harry Styles, although you would be forgiven for wanting to avoid the comparison to a boy from One Direction. For those curly haired men out there, do not fear: you may be soon joined by more stylish celebrities as hair trends become longer and more textured for the winter months. Bruce Masefield, UK creative director of Vidal Sassoon, explains, “This may be a bit of a bold statement but I predict that hair will be longer, Kurt Cobain-esque, to the jaw and beyond, I believe this would create a new exciting vibe in hair.” A final note: “Its no longer about following a certain fashion, it’s about following style,” says Ted Watkins.
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