ANOTHER change of season, another excuse for JP Morgan bankers to try the new autumnal menu at Gaucho in Smithfield. As it happened, the party of ten enjoyed the guinea fowl and venison dish so much they ordered it twice, followed by an extra main course of black cod, on special that day. Since it was an evening occasion, the JP Morgan heavyweights didn’t hold back on the drinks either, putting away two bottles of vintage Moet, five of Cobos Malbec, four of Catena Alta Chardonnay and one of Zuccardi pudding wine. But perhaps it was the generous measures of port, cognac and armagnac that rounded off the £2,600 banquet that ultimately convinced these diners to rebook for tomorrow night.