Milos review: Working Lunch at a great Greek in St James, focusing on fresh fish in the grandeur of British Columbia House

 
Melissa York
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The Fish Market at Milos London

Milos London

1 Regents Street, SW1Y, milos.ca/restaurants/london

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WHAT AND WHERE? An upmarket Greek franchise with restaurants in Athens, Montreal, New York, Miami and Las Vegas. Founded by chef Costas Spiliadis, it’s set in the monastic grandeur of British Columbia House in St James’, but blanched white like a modern Mediterranean villa inside. Tables are set in front of an iced fish stall, so waiters can hold your chosen bream aloft and mouth “THIS ONE?” back at you.

WHAT’S THE DEAL? The Business Lunch menu comprises two courses for £20 or three courses for £24, so you get a decent amount of squid for your quid. A La Carte is a sharing affair, so the set menu is good way to avoid that as well.

WHAT’S ON THE MENU? Three choices to start, salmon tartare, grilled octopus, and a Greek salad; four for mains, a chicken dish, lamb chops, sea bream and grilled salmon; and dessert is seasonal fruit, a yogurt ‘martini’, a spiced walnut cake or a baklava.

WHAT’S THE BEST? The Greek salad is a beast that’s dominated by chunky tomatoes, but only a couple of salty black olives. You’re better off with the grilled octopus, sliced and embedded in a creamy pureed fava bean mash. Lamb chops are served pink and simple, with some sensationally seasoned chips (bizarrely advertised as fried potatoes) and a zinging coleslaw.

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ROOM FOR DESSERT? A couple of things are worth going off menu for, namely, the homemade yoghurt with honey and walnuts and the cheesecake. Otherwise, stick to the fruit. The dates are gorgeously gooey.

THE VERDICT? Highfalutin surroundings and a decent Greek wine list elevate this very simple menu – all fresh fish and well-sourced veg – to Olympian heights. It’s the smartest Greek restaurant in town.

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