Working Lunch at Sushisamba review: New Omakase tasting menu finely balances the hits with more experimental fare

 
Melissa York
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Yellowtail taquitos, sans ornamental brick

Sushisamba
110 Bishopsgate, EC2N

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WHAT? You know SushiSamba’s outpost in London by now; thirty-eighth floor, 360 degree views, big orange tree? We’re revisiting as it’s just launched an Omakase menu – a tasting menu between us fine diners – that’s designed to take the hassle out of business lunches.

WHERE? Heron Tower, which was nearly renamed the Salesforce Tower, but is officially called 110 Bishopsgate, even though everyone still calls it Heron Tower. It’s right opposite Liverpool Street Station and SushiSamba has recently snapped up another prime spot on the opera terrace overlooking Covent Garden’s piazza, which is set to open later this year.

HOW DOES IT WORK? At £82 a person, it’s pricey, but it’s also a prime spot in the City and there’s a lot of food. Taste your way through five courses of signature dishes, sampling two or three small plates per course.

BEST DISHES? It’s a fushion food fanfare up there. Crispy yellowtail taquitos, with a slice of avocado and a dab of corn miso, are a highlight, despite being served in an ornamental London brick, while El Topo, the barmy house sushi served warm with mozzarella melted over the top, is a delightfully decadent mouthful, with a satisfying cruch of crispy onions at the end. Salty green bean tempura with truffle aioli is the gourmet bar snack of dreams. Wagyu gyoza, charred lamb chops and a selection of nigiri are confident crowd pleasers, but controversialists will enjoy dissecting Yuca Plantation. It looks like a woodland floor – dyed-black woody cassava root with sweet potato and gritty smoke emulsion – and tastes like Bonfire Night.

WHAT’S FOR DESSERT? After eating your way around South America and Japan, the chocolate banana cake with maple butter and vanilla rum ice cream is a welcome, sloppy pud.

NEED TO BOOK? Yes, particularly if you’re dropping in just before dinner gets into full swing or towards the end of the week. Call 020 3640 7330 or visit sushisamba.com.

THE VERDICT... Destination dining at its most effusive, with a vibrant dining room that really comes alive when the sun sets.. The omakase menu is a feast that belts the hits, but bravely throws in a few B sides for the fans.

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