Working Lunch at Lupins, SE1 review: No fuss tapas in Flat Iron Square is everything you'd want from a great neighbourhood restaurant

 
Melissa York
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A selection of dishes from Lupins

Lupins
66 Union St, SE1

WHAT? An ever-changing tapas-style that showcases the best ingredients of the season is the star of the show at this otherwise humble brasserie.

WHERE? In Flat Iron Square, an emerging foodie hub hiding out in the old railway arches between London Bridge and Southwark. A trendy place for a media lunch, but also ideal if you’re looking for something quick before the theatre.

WHO? Lucy Peddar and Natasha Cooke, a pairing recently responsible for The Cooking Collective, a pop up catering company that’s similarly preoccupied with seasonal produce.


Inside (and upstairs) in Lupins

ORDER THIS... The menu changes every few days, depending on what the duo can get in fresh, but there are some overarching themes. Organic produce and fresh seafood often feature (they ran out of oysters but some delicately-spiced coronation scallops made up for it) and a crab thermidor for a spot of cheesy comfort. The only starter worth your while are the courgette, chilli and ricotta croquettes; indulgently crunchy batter on the outside offset by a clean, green inside. The chocolate mousse with sesame and caramel is obscene in the best way.

BUSINESS OR PLEASURE? Rustic tables crammed close aren’t ideal for sensitive chats, but there’s a breezy, almost Mediterranean atmosphere that’ll do nicely on a balmy afternoon.

NEED TO BOOK? Reserve at lupinslondon.com or call 0203 908 5888. Lunch service ends at 3pm.

THE VERDICT... Lupins is everything you’d want from a good neighbourhood restaurant. If it’s no fuss, fast and tasty tapas you’re after, you’re in safe hands.

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