Elystan Street review: Sublime dishes in this most unassuming of Chelsea venues

 
Jess Lester
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43 Elystan St, SW3 3NT

WHAT? A European fine-dining restaurant in the heart of Chelsea with straightforward dishes that focus on seasonal flavours in a friendly setting.

WHO? Elystan Street is co-owned by the Michelin-starred Phil Howard and restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas, with a kitchen led by head chef Toby Burrows who worked in Howard’s previous restaurant, The Square.

ORDER THIS... The menu takes on a range of classic European dishes, so expect home-style comfort food made stylish, using simple ingredients that combine to form unexpectedly exciting flavours. Meals begin with Cerignola olives and salted butter served with fresh bread. The salad of duck and summer beetroot is the perfect starter; the duck soft and delicate, combined with the rich, earthy taste of the fresh beetroots, grown at nearby Fulham Palace. The cashew nut hummus with grilled cauliflower is an excellent vegetarian option, and works well with its wine pairing, which deftly enhances the light curry sauce. For mains, the crumbed plaice is elevated by a lobster emulsion and contrasts with the heaviness of the rest of the plate. The rump of lamb with baked aubergine is decorated with crispy courgette slices that provide a variant texture to an already jam-packed course.

BUSINESS OR PLEASURE? Tucked away behind large wooden panels at the front of the restaurant and away from the main dining space is a private room that can seat up to 14 guests, ideal if you’re entertaining a larger party. The main dining room also has larger tables that can seat up to eight guests.

NEED TO BOOK? You can book online at elystanstreet.com or by calling 020 7628 5005 for general reservations.

THE VERDICT... A combination of well considered dishes and relaxed interiors combine to make you feel so at ease that you could be dining in your own home.

ONE MORE THING... If you’re an art lover, Elystan Street has a variety of artworks on display; Notably these include a drawing by Tracey Emin, a painting by Patrick Coulfield and a sculpture by Katusha Bull. A guide to all the artworks can be requested from your waiter, so you can turn your evening meal into an impromptu private gallery visit, too.

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