Working Lunch review: Hix Soho has gone fanatical about fish to celebrate its eighth birthday

 
Melissa York
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Hix Soho
66-70 Brewer St, W1F

WHAT?


Hix Soho turns eight this year, and it’s celebrating by going fanatical about fish. Its new menu is focused on seasonal seafood, with a new wine and cocktail list to match. Fish and chips is back, the burger patties are packed with prawns and they’ll even de-bone the catch of the day at your table, if that’s something you’re into.

WHERE?

In the thick of it on Brewer Street. It looks like an industrial warehouse from the outside, but its masculine, leather-clad interiors would be right at home in corporate Cityville.

WHO?

Mark Hix, of course, our esteemed columnist and owner of eight restaurants, not including Mark’s Bars. Regular readers will know all about Mark’s love for British produce, from Wiltshire burrata to Dorset vodka.


Monkfish curry

ORDER THIS...

No visit is complete without a nibble on the Leigh-on-Sea cockle popcorn – an addictive deep-fried snack; they’re salty, crunchy and speckled with warming black pepper. The crispy squid comes in a much lighter batter and is surprisingly refreshing thanks to an inspired sprinkling of coconut shavings. The monkfish tail curry, a popular dish, came with samphire bhajis that are disappointingly similar to onion ones, but ask for extra heat; the fish’ll stand up to it. Drinks-wise, opt for a Hix Fix, a sour take on the Kir Royale mixing Hambledon English sparkling wine with eau de vie and morello cherries.

ROOM FOR DESSERT?

It’s been 10 years since the credit crunch, but Hix’s credit crunch ice cream, a honeycomb-flecked vanilla scoop with hot chocolate sauce, is still going strong. Nostalgia presides over most of this pudding list like a stodgy parent, proud of how grown up their little Pimms jelly looks in such a smart restaurant.


Credit crunch ice cream

NEED TO BOOK?

Call 020 7292 3518 or visit hixrestaurants.co.uk.

THE VERDICT...

Comfort is the name of the game at Hix Soho. Come here for honest British cooking, then lounge in the squidgy embrace of a chesterfield in the basement bar until late afternoon.

ONE MORE THING...

The illustrations on the front of the menus are the work of Aaron Godwin-Lamptey, an artist and maitre d’ at Hixter Bankside.

Read more: Is Angler the best fish restaurant in the City?

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