Working Lunch review: Angler at the South Place Hotel in Moorgate is a ray of sunshine with an outdoor terrace and a new summertime set menu

 
Melissa York
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A burrata dressed for Ascot

Angler
3 South Place, EC2M

What?

A Michelin-starred restaurant specialising in seafood from British waters. It’s fine dining in a metallic loft conversion surrounded by statement centrepieces you can stare at inquisitively in between courses, wondering ‘is that bouquet of orchids sprouting from the ceiling or did I eat a funny whelk?’

Who?

As part of the D&D group, Angler is stable mates with Coq d’Argent, Le Pont de la Tour and German Gymnasium, although it’s the only one to have earned a Michelin-star. Executive chef Gary Foulkes migrated over two years ago from The Square, a house of haute cuisine in Mayfair with two Michelin stars of its own.

To start:

Get into the spirit of the season with the Taste of Summer menu offering 3 courses for £38. The ajo blanco starter was my dish of the night; the cold soup was neon green, yet was fresh and delicate enough to house a raw red prawn without overpowering it.


The summer terrace

The main event:

A chicken breast, scattered liberally with springy squid and broad beans in a rich, meaty broth. Essentially two small chicken breasts in gravy, it was both heartier and meatier than expected, especially after the airy starter. If your budget allows, the whole lobster, arranged neatly in a circle like a red blancmange with zesty lemon verbena, is a sweeter, lighter alternative.

Room for dessert?

Desserts are mainly French – peach tarts, pralines and souffles; all delightfully dainty to compliment a fish feast with the notable exception of strawberries and cream on a buckwheat waffle. Pick of the munch was a mille feuille, zinging with more of that lemon verbena, that’s really set off by the 2004 German Riesling recommendation. The souffle, too, is positively bouncy with a touch of chamomile at the bitter end.


Inside Angler

The verdict:

A refined restaurant that may not be the most fashionable spot in the City, but is unusually generous for event dining. The dishes are meticulously planned down to the last polished bean, service is smart and a parade of playful amuse bouches in between courses will keep things interesting.

And another thing...

The Chef’s View table has its own view of the kitchen and the City’s landmarks and even comes with its own eight-course tasting menu.

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