Cecconi’s City of London
The Ned, 27 Poultry, EC2R
A wide-ranging and smartly decorated restaurant specialising in cuisine from Northern Italy. Using Venice as its starting point, it tastes like a trattoria and looks like a plush Edwardian drawing room.
In The Ned’s 3,000sqft former banking hall, surrounded by eight other restaurants. As boisterous as that sounds, Cecconi’s itself is tucked behind wooden partitions on the right hand side of the main entrance, so the noise becomes a more manageable atmospheric bustle once you sit down.
This is Soho House Group’s second Cecconi’s in London; the flagship is in Mayfair and the others are dotted elsewhere in Europe and the USA.
It’s a versatile menu, ranging from snack size cicchetti to hearty, rustic pizzas, to delicate carpaccios and dainty salads. This being the City, we couldn’t move for robust veal Milaneses, entire plate-sized with barely room for half a lemon on top. Substantial, but rather bland, we abandoned it in favour of the fresh pasta – a meaty plin agnolotti, with a rich, sweet sauce bolstered by butter and sage. The sharing appetiser platter doesn’t disappoint either; it changes depending on what produce is in and we were greeting by a mozzarella doorstopper, juicy olives and a hunk of warm, homemade bread. For something lighter, a vibrant fillet of salmon – topped with a tarragon pesto that’s as green as the surrounding verdite columns – is a solid alternative that won’t have you falling asleep at your desk at 3pm.
STAR OF THE SHOW?
The tiramisu is a proper grown up dessert that arrives in a straight-laced block then oozes caffeinated booze. Indulgent and unmissable.
NEED TO BOOK?
Visit thened.com/restaurants to book or call 020 3828 2010. Park yourself at the bar if you’re alone or pressed for time, choose one of the round tables for a jovial meet-up or reserve a spot along one of the long velvet booths if you intend to settle in for the afternoon.
An indisputable crowd-pleaser in impeccably grand surroundings that are sure to impress visiting clients. The Ned is the place to be right now, but the tiramisu will have you returning for years to come.