DUM Biryani House review: Working Lunch visits a basement biryani Den in Soho where a Fat Duck alumni is turning up the heat

 
Melissa York
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The chicken drumstick biryani with all the trimmings

DUM Biryani House
187B Wardour Street, W1F

WHAT?

Hot on the heels of London’s latest food trend – restaurants that do one thing really well – is this basement biryani den run by Fat Duck alumni Dhruv Mittal. Move over tikka massala fans, this one’s for the spice fiends.

ORDER THIS...

An aromatic waft hits you as soon as you break through the hefty puff pastry lid of your chicken drumstick, lamb shank or veg biryani. The menu’s also recently been extended to include small plates and specials that showcase the flavours of southern India. The guinea fowl-filled Lakhmi samosas, served with a knockout fenugreek chutney, are an inspired highlight, and you’ll regret not tucking into fat, juicy prawns stir fried with chilli and coconut Andhra-style.


Andhra prawn stir fry with red chilli and coconut

PLEASURE DOING BUSINESS?

Depends how much spice you can handle. If you’re made of sterner stuff, it could be a masterful power play; if you’re a sweater, there’s no refuge for you here. Walk in or email hello@dumlondon.com for groups of five or more. It’s an informal, yet private space with lots of alcoves to tuck into, too.

THE VERDICT?

Hyderabadi cuisine at its heartiest. Expect fistfuls of flavour, heat and genuinely intriguing dishes that warrant repeat visits. If there’s any left, get a doggie bag; it’s great al-desko, too.


Inside DUM (note: cheeky wall decor)

ONE MORE THING...

Try one of the house cocktails, tinged with cardamom, saffron or rose, and chuckle at the Bollywood-meets-pop art cartoons on the walls. Swoon.

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