The journey into Malmö itself is one of the most fascinating things about this Swedish city. First you must fly into entirely the wrong country, landing in Copenhagen, before boarding a speedy train that whizzes you out of Denmark and over the border in about 20 minutes.
On the way you’ll travel along the infamous Øresund Bridge, as in The Bridge of murderous Scandi-drama fame, and a spectacular road-and-rail route that soars over (and, for four kilometres, underneath) the ice-cold Danish strait.
Cycling is the best way to travel when you’re in Malmö. You can hire a bike for about £12 and take in the local sites and attractions at your own pace. Zip through Malmö’s Western Harbour and watersides on cute, pale blue bikes, trying to keep up with the super-fit locals going about their morning routines. People here are up early to exercise and regularly dive naked into the open-air sea baths at Ribersborgs Kallbadhus.
I decided instead to take a sea kayaking tour, where I almost lost my oar so mesmerised was I by the views. It's a great way to see Malmö and get a glimpse of daily life on the coast, mainly swimmers and families enjoying the great outdoors.
Where to eat:
Malmö has a flourishing gastro scene, with new and independent restaurants and bars cropping up and drawing in crowds from neighbouring Copenhagen. The place to book is Västergarten in the cooler part of Malmö, where head chef Olle Alenburg personally welcomes you into what could be mistaken for his living room.
Prepare yourself for the four-course menu, all of which is locally-sourced and seasonal. I dug into braised ox cheeks, divine whipped butter (the secret is the crème fraîche, I’m told), and lingonberry ice-cream with sour milk and toasted oats for dessert.
What to do:
Try the popular dessert workshop run by pastry chef Joel Lindqvist, who’s won awards for his stunning creations. Held in his new studio, Mat & Chokladstudio, the three hour workshop teaches you to make three scrumptious puddings: a blackberry mousse glazed with white chocolate, a sea buckthorn ice-cream, and black pepper ganache chocolates.
The techniques you learn will stick with you, as will the proudly captured shots on Instagram. Spaces fill up quickly, so it’s best to book before you travel. Visit pastybyjoellindqvist.se
One last thing:
Fika is the Swedes’ take on afternoon tea, and typically involves copious amounts of cake and coffee. At Lilla Kafferosteriet, a local coffee roaster, they make their own blends and serve a huge selection of espressos and lattes. You can get your own blend made up in store, freshly ground to take back home with you.