I don’t think we make the most of eggs in the UK. In fact, I don’t think most countries do. I’m talking savoury dishes here, not desserts – what would we do without the good old egg in a cake or soufflé? I’ve been a big fan of Clarence court eggs for years now and when it comes to breeds of hens and ducks, they are way ahead of the egg game.
They aren’t available everywhere, which is maybe a good thing because over the years their eggs have really influenced both the Hix menus and my home cooking. Whether it’s bright orange yolked Burford Brown hens eggs or Gladys May ducks eggs, there’s nothing better.
The egg is a great vehicle for all sorts of both humble and luxury ingredients. I recently did a dinner in Latvia for our sustainable caviar producer Mottra (read about that next week), where I scrambled a duck’s egg, returned it to the shell and topped it with a spoonful of sterlet caviar: simple and delicious.
Things like bottarga which is dried grey mullet roes really transforms scrambled eggs and a simple fried egg gets a bit of a lift when you scatter brown shrimps and skinny asparagus or samphire over it.
So don’t think of the high protein simple egg as a dull breakfast staple but give it a whirl at your next dinner party and surprise your guests.
Brik a L’oeuf