M Victoria review: The new restaurant serving up raw kangaroo

Steve Hogarty
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M on Threadneedle Street is a City staple, a thrumming lunchtime emporium comprising two restaurants: the steaky M Grill and and fishy M Raw. Opened last November, M Victoria matches its older twin beat for beat in SW1, presenting with an eerie familiarity bordering on deja vu. This is unmistakably M: from the steak and fish menu, right down to the vast and alluring wall of wine vending machines, which seem to cover every surface like the greatest casino known to man.

WHERE? Victoria Street, SW1E 6SQ. In the Zig Zag Building and a minute from the train station, the commuterly location provides a distinct vibe: sharp and buzzing, but more chilled out than its City sibling.

ORDER THIS... M is best known for its global offering of around-the-world steaks, but put thoughts of beef aside and try the kangaroo tartare. Super lean and utterly devoid of fat, this fairly unusual dish is prepared raw to maintain its unique texture. Cooking toughens it up much too quickly. Continue the raw craze by ordering the yellow fin tuna, which arrives in little domino-sized slabs with sashimi trappings – so cool and moist and fresh, you’ll want to pop them on your eyes like cucumber slices. Or maybe that’s just me.

BUSINESS OR PLEASURE? The location makes this the perfect meeting spot for those looking to make a quick zip away on a train after lunch, while the private dining area can accommodate more formal gatherings. The bar’s a great place to miss your train, too.

NEED TO BOOK? You could more than likely walk in for a lunchtime table, but for dinner reservations it’s best to book ahead online at mrestaurants.co.uk

The kangaroo tartare at M Victoria, guaranteed to put a spring in your step

THE VERDICT... M Victoria brings the quality food and flair of M Threadneedle to a neighbourhood not renowned for its culinary vibrancy, and kicks things off with a surprisingly adventurous, Antipodean-inclusive menu. Highly recommended.

ONE MORE THING... On the ground and upper floors you’ll find the M Wine Store, stocking innumerable fancy wines from all over, many of which are exclusive to M.