Working Lunch review: 28°- 50° Fetter Lane, St Paul's has a fine wine cellar and lofty ambitions

 
Michael Swearingen
Quite a fishy dishy

140 Fetter Lane, EC4A | 2850.co.uk/fetter

WHAT?

28°-50° Fetter Lane is a relaxed “wine workshop” turned restaurant tucked away in a cellar-like room that infuses ustic country decor with modern city stylings.

WHERE?

In the legal quarter, just off of Fleet Street.

WHO?

Head chef Julien Baris left Michelin-starred Le Moulin de l’abbaye in France to take the reins on Fetter Lane in 2014. There are two more branches in Mayfair and Marylebone.

ORDER THIS...

Each meal is improved immeasurably if you allow the sommelier to work his pairing magic. The duck leg and quail starter come highly recommended, but steel your stomach for the Banana Parfait to finish. It’ll be worth it.

BUSINESS OR PLEASURE?

Both could be managed, though the lively scene is better suited to leisurely outings; close quarters means it can get a bit loud.

NEED TO BOOK?

It’s better to call ahead (0207 242 8877), but you shouldn’t have too much trouble finding a table at lunch time.

THE VERDICT...

It’s first and foremost a server of fine wines with over 30 carefully chosen bottles available to try by the glass. Where the food could have been an afterthought, a finely-crafted menu has been created to complement an incredibly refined cellar.

ONE MORE THING...

The staff are very proud of the triple-cooked chips.

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